Tag Archives: Pasta Sauce

CONCHIGLIE CON POMODORO, ZUCCHINE E ROSMARINO..PASTA SHELLS WITH TOMATO, ZUCCHINI AND ROSEMARY…

ZUCCHINI!!! I call it a wonder vegetable because I can find a million ways for create a meal around them. In Italy they are known as ZUCCHINE, small squash…in America was spell it ZUCCHINI. Drives Italians nuts but it is what it is, I try to use both spellings so everyone is happy. Isn’t it better to sit a table happy than to be arguing? I think so to. This dish will keep everyone happy. Cooking historically is about what’s convenient and available. I have nice local zucchini I purchased this week from Holmdel NJ’s Dearborn Market ( https://dearbornmarket.com/ ) and have quite a bit of fresh Rosemary that I’m growing in my yard. The kids were home from college for the weekend and wanted Daddy’s Chicken cutlets (seriously, who doesn’t want chicken cutlets??) so I came up with this dish . I used a sprig of fresh rosemary, do not use dried. The taste pairs well with the onions and zucchini in the tomato and wine. It all works. Let’s get into your kitchen and make a pan of this!! BTW, I sauce it like an Italian in Italy sauces it. The pasta will take the whole pan of sauce, try it this way. It’s not a Sunday Sauce/Gravy kind of dish. Time to cook!!

1 14 oz box of Imported Italian Crushed Tomatoes (i used Cirio brand, the plain version not the flavored ones)

2 tbs. extra virgin OLIVE OIL

2 MEDIUM ZUCCHINI, RINSED AND DICED

1 ONION, DICED

SEA SALT

1/4 TSP. PEPERONCINO

1 SPRIG FRESH ROSEMARY

1/8 CUP ITALIAN WHITE WINE

1 LB. MEDIUM SHELLS (CONCHIGLIE) IMPORTED FROM ITALY, COOKED JUST TILL AL DENTE

PECORINO ROMANO

In a large dutch oven or high sided cast iron skillet heat the olive oil. Add the onions and zucchini and peperoncino. Season with salt…blend everything in the pan. Then cover and let cook on medium for 7 minutes. Carefully uncover and stir. Cover again for 5 more minutes. The zucchini and onions should be close to soft by now. Add the sprig of rosemary and deglaze the pan with wine. Cover again for 10 minutes. Uncover and add the tomatoes. Stir. Bring to a boil THEN reduce to a simmer and stir intermittently. Let this simmer for about 20 minutes. Remove the rosemary. Then add the al dente pasta shells to the sauce, make sure they are gently blended into the sauce and well coated. Let this cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in about 1/8 cup of freshly grated Pecorino Romano. Let it sit for 5 minutes, then serve. That’s all folks. Enjoy this dish. Zucchini is love.

PENNE WITH “SICILIAN” SAUCE, U’ CAPULIATU RAGU’

Sicily…a land where so many of our ItalianAmerican food culture comes from. Wonderful dishes from Sicily’s coast and Mountainous inland capture the tastebuds and imaginations of food lovers all over the world. this meat sauce is termed “CAPULIATO or CAPULIATU” which means minced in Sicilian…the tomatoes can be minced, the meats are minced,,the vegetables are minced. Sicilians love peas….they ingeniously combine them in places you might not expect them, like in tomato sauce. My own Sicilian born Paternal Grandmother years ago made her very sweet thick Sicilian sauce with tomatoes, mostly paste, onions, olive oil, potatoes, hard boiled eggs, and PEAS. Peas simmered in a sauce of onions, ground beef and sieved tomatoes are truly a popular style in traditional Sicilian cooking. Here’s my version of the ground meat, peas, onions, and tomato Sicilian pasta sauce. This Ragu’ of minced or chopped meats is often called U’Capuliatu. Let’s “go” to Sicily now and start a pot of U’Capuliatu.

U’ CAPULIATU’ RAGU….SICILIAN MEAT RAGU

1 LB. MINCED OR GROUND BEEF

3/4 LB MINCED OR GROUND VEAL OR PORK

1 28 OZ CAN SAN MARZANO DOP TOMATOES, CRUSHED TILL SMOOTH

1 CAN IMPORTED ITALIAN TOMATO PASTE

SICILIAN EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

1 FINELY MINCED CARROT

1 FINELY MINCED STALK OF CELERY

1 LARGE SIZED ONION, FINELY MINCED

1 CUP WHITE WINE

1 CUP OF WATER

1 CUP FRESH OR FROZEN PEAS

KOSHER OR SEA SALT

FRESH GROUND BLACK PEPPER

FRESHLY GRATED CACIOCAVALLO OR PECORINO ROMANO CHEESE FROM ITALY OR SICILY

3 FRESH BASIL LEAVES

In a large heavy bottomed pot or saucepot heat 2 tbs of olive oil. Add the onions, carrots, and celery. Season with salt and pepper. Don’t rush this step. The vegetables need to “sweat” and give up their flavor to the oil and soften. Saute’ for at least 15-20 minutes making sure the vegetables DO NOT BROWN.Once they are soft add the meats and raise the heat making sure to have the sauteed vegetables well mixed into the meat. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook the meat till nicely browned for at least 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the wine and blend in. Cook until the wine is evaporated then add the paste and the water. Bring to a boil and blend well. Let cook for 5 minutes, then add the Tomato and 1 basil leaf. Bring to a boil and then to a simmer. Let this simmer for 30 minutes stirring occasionally. Add the peas and the remaining basil. Season with salt and pepper as needed. Cook on low for 1 1/2 hours. Let this sit overnight before using. Reheat gently and toss with pasta of your choice….I love it with Penne Rigati or Rigatoni…Toss the al dente pasta in the hot Ragu’ and then add 1/2 cup of grated CACIOCAVALLO or PECORINO to the pan, a drizzle of Sicilian Olive Oil, and blend in. Add more cheese to taste. ENJOY!!

Now here’s a bit more on the CAPULIATU…this is a Recipe for the Capuliatu’ Ragu….the minced meat and tomato sauce. You can make or buy CAPULIATO in Sicily and it’s a chopped dried tomato, garlic, basil, chile pepper and Extra Virgin Oil condimento that is used as is, tossed with cooked pasta and toasted breadcrumbs. My recipe is the Ragu’ Capuliatu…making sure I add this addendum so the SicilianFood Polizie don’t come after me…lol.

GET YOUR PASTA ANGRY!!! PASTA ALL’ARRABBIATA!!! PASTA WITH CHILES AND TOMATO

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PASTA ALL’ARRABBIATA…translated it means ANGRY MACARONI.  A descriptive term referring to the spicy heat in the dish from the PEPERONCINO, or dried crushed red chiles that are used all over the world including many regions of Italy.  The dish is said to have originated in Rome and often it’s catalogued in La Cucina Romana (Roman cuisine) but Southern Italy has so many instances of chile-infused oil , or lard based , or tomato based sauces for pasta that it’s really a tough call.  What is generally thought of as the right pasta to serve with Arrabbiata sauce is PENNE, or PENNETTA.  Perfect when some of the tomato and chile flecks get caught inside of the penne.  I also love it with spaghetti…as illustrated in this ridiculous poor quality grainy Selfie..IMG_9327  Don’t be bullied.  Penne is the most popular pasta used  for a reason, it’s just a great match. But Spaghetti and any other pasta you like works too.  Shh..just don’t say that in Italy.  LOL.   In the town of Marigliano outside of Naples in Campania the beginning of July is given over to a Sagra, or a Celebration in honor of PENNETTA ALL’ARRABBIATA.  Imagine?  A feast celebrating a dish of tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, hot peppers and penne? 02-Locandina-01-701x1024This year’s announcement for the Sagra.  Music, Drink and Pennetta All’Arabbiata.  I think I like the sound of this.  The sauce for Arrabbiata, like SO many of Italy’s pasta sauces is a simple affair.  Olive Oil, Chiles, either Fresh or dried, garlic (some use onion), Italian Tomatoes, basil or not..Salt, and Penne. Really. That’s it.  From what my amateur research has gathered, recipes calling themselves “true” Roman recipes all use fresh chopped chiles.  Southern Italian recipes and Italianamerican recipes use Peperoncino, the same pepper,  but dried.  While they may be the same vegetable they do have different tastes.  One imparts a fragrant fresh taste with it’s heat and the other gives a deep earthy flavor and heat.  One day I will try this dish with fresh chiles, for now I use the dried.  While it’s a very quick dish to make the best way to get maximum chile flavor and heat is to slowly “fry” it in the Olive Oil rather than add it to the simmering sauce or only when ready to eat.  For dinner for 4-5 here’s how I do it.

TIME: 1 hour or less                                 SERVES: 4-5

1/2 cup good quality Olive Oil or Extra Virgin, preferably Italian

1 TBS. PEPERONCINO (crushed dried red hot pepper flakes), plus more for serving

2 sliced cloves of Garlic, or 1 small onion finely diced

Kosher Salt

2 28 oz cans SAN MARZANO DOP TOMATOES (or Italian Plums) crushed with your hands

1 pound Penne (I use imported ITalian Pasta )

4 Basil leaves

In a large pan or heavy pot heat the olive oil to medium.  Add the peperoncino and let this sizzle and pop on medium heat for a good 4 minutes.  This releases the oils in the dried peppers and helps to carry all of it’s flavor through the sauce.  Add 1/2 tsp of Kosher Salt.  Add the garlic and  (tricky here) saute’ until you just bring the slices to where they begin to get golden color than add the Tomatoes. Blend well and bring to a boil, then  back down to a simmer.  Allow the sauce to thicken, this will take some time, maybe 1/2 hour.  Then taste for seasoning.  If the sauce is thick enough (not watery) add the basil leaves and stir.  If it needs more time, keep it on low simmer until you get a thicker sauce.  Arrabbiata’s beauty is that it’s not “supposed” to be scorching…unless you want it to be.  At this point you can add more peperoncino to taste.  I find when feeding the family, less is more.  I’ll add more on my dish when I sit down anyway to get it to my heat threshold.  While the sauce is cooking , during the last 10 minutes, make a pound of Penne or Spaghettti till just al dente. Drain and add to the sauce and let it cook in the sauce for only 3 minutes.  Tear in the Basil leaves…mix, taste for seasoning, then serve.

IMG_9328IMG_9329IMG_9332 Dress the pasta with some Grated Pecorino Romano, a drizzle of Olive Oil, and more Peperoncino.  GET ANGRY!!! ARRABBIATA!!!!!  A grating of Pecorino or Parmigiano if you like!  I like.

Here’s a variation…PASTA ALL’ARRABIATA con SPINACI SALTATI.  Saute’ some fresh spinach with garlic and olive oil. Serve on top of the Sauced Pasta.  Then mix it all in after you’ve taken a nice pic for Instagram, Snapchat or Facebook…ok Twitter and Pinterest too. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHere’s a tip regarding Italian tomato sauces from South to North…only a handful are more complex requiring a sizable list of ingredients.  The vast majority are but a handful of ingredients.  What makes people NOT angry with this Arrabbiata is that you control your anger..an anger management of sorts  LOL.  The amount of peperoncino heat is up to you but it needs to be more than just a pinch since it’s not just Sugo di Pomodoro or Marinara, but a wake up call for the taste buds..feel the burn!!!  Happy Cooking!!

SPAGHETTI ALLA PUTTANESCA, A GIFT FROM NAPLES, ITALY…BELLA NAPOLI!

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Ever not know what to cook?  It happens all the time and so often a meal starts  by opening the refrigerator then taking a peak as to what’s available.  It’s such a popular way to decide what you are going to cook that the Food Network’s hit CHOPPED is loosely based on that premise.  You are presented with a random group of ingredients and that will spark an idea.  This was what I found one evening after work in the fridge:OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA  Gaeta Olives (an Oil Cured Black Italian Olive), flat leaf Italian Parsley, Sicilian Anchovies, Salt Cured Capers…to that I added some standard pantry items like Dried Sicilian Oregano, Peperoncino, Garlic, San Marzano Tomaotes.  PUTTANESCA went off in my brain.  I had no plan of making that but it was right there in front of me..CHE FORTUNATO!!! What’s a puttanesca?  It’s a dish with legendary and questionable origins with many stories swirling around as to why, who, and what caused this dish to be created.  The ingredients are basic to the cuisine of the area in and around the city of Naples,  BELLA NAPOLI!  My own heritage is based in Naples as that’s the city my maternal grandmother lived in from the time she was 10 until she immigrated to Staten Island, NYC at the age of 20.   These ingredients along with dried pasta are always in my fridge and pantry.  So, this so called “Whore’s Pasta”, (Puttanesca translates to made by Prostitutes) was most likely born of the same circumstances as my dinner was, using the ingredients on hand to create something delicious.  Not so sure that the local street walkers concocted it to feed themselves and their Pimps inbetween “jobs”…ok..we can say that’s what happened because stories are always better when they are scandalous. Naples is a  crowded ancient city which spawned most of what America considers is the food of Italy.  It sits the shadow of Mt.VesuviusOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand has given my kitchen table so much inspiration.  Puttanesca Sauce is one of those favorites I love to cook.  As with most Italian Sauces and pasta preparations it’s relatively quick.  Yes, Yes, I know, your Nonna cooked her sauce for 100 hours on a Sunday so don’t even start with me..that’s only one type of Italian sauce.  There aren’t enough days in the year to discuss each region’s pasta dishes.  Have no fear of the time factor!  A pasta dish during the week is not a long and laborious process!OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA  Let’s pass through the gates of the Port of Naples now and enter the #AFOKitchen, my #AFoodObsession playground, ie: my  home’s kitchen and start to cook SPAGHETTI ALLA PUTTANESCA.

This recipe will feed 4 people and will take approximately 30 minutes or so.  (by the way don’t panic if you are falling behind on the time..that is just a guide..if you are still cooking it after an hour i suggest you order out…lol)

1 lb. good Italian Imported Spaghetti (cheap pasta is just that, it’s cheap, filling, but lacks the toothsome qualities the better pasta gives you.  DeCecco, Barilla, Delverde, a few of the good choices, although Barilla is now made in the U.S.)

2 tbs. salt cured capers, ran under water and drained

1 cup pitted and coarsely chopped CURED Italian Olives, such as the Gaeta variety  (canned black olives lose any flavor when cooked, the oil cured are amazing and stay flavorful throughout the cooking process.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 large cloves of garlic, sliced

1 tsp. dried oregano

1 can crushed San Marzano Tomatoes

Anchovies..here’s where I am going to veer away from possibly what many prefer, i used about 4 filets in this dish, others prefer up to 12…you be the judge.  Anchovies are a concentrated powerhouse of salt and Mediterranean fish love.  chop them.

1 tsp. peperoncino (red pepper flakes)

Salt to taste (sea salt best for this)

1/8 cup chopped flat leaf Italian parsley

In a wide pan heat 2 tbs of the Extra Virgin Olive Oil..add the olives,  the oregano that you rub between your hands first then let it fall into the pan, add 1/2 the peperoncino, then the garlic and anchovies. Add 1/2 the parsley.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Your nose is your best cooking tool, after your hands and once you can smell that garlic you are now ready to add the tomatoes.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA and the capers. Bring this to a boil THEN down to a simmer and let this cook for 15-20 minutes.  Stir frequently, and why? Tomatoes are loaded with natural sugar (they are a fruit!!)and they will burn and scorch.  Number one pet peeve with having tomato sauced foods out…scorched sauce. You don’t need to cook it that long!!!  Sorry, I digress, back to the pan of sauce before I burn it!!  While this is happening in your pan cook the spaghetti just until AL DENTE according to the package directions.  Drain and then add directly into the pan and toss well for no more than 3-4 minutes. Then serve.  Simple.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Here’s an important note…add salt to taste only if you need it..the capers and anchovies and the cured olives have plenty of salt in them.  However some like more punch than others so don’t add it until everything has been added and cooked down.  You can always ADD salt, you can never TAKE IT OUT.

See that…that dish you thought would take so long to make?  It’s not that hard and here’s why, Italian Plums, especially San Marzanos cook down rather quickly, the ingredients are packed with flavor which gives up some of that to the sauce.  Garnish with the remaining parsley and peperoncino.

And in your mind, let this be the view you have in your mind while enjoying the meal.  Sunset over the Bay of Naples and Monte Vesuvio  (pic taken by me in June of 2008).

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La Bella Napoli!!