Class is in session, sit down and “FA ATTENZIONE” (pay attention). Today’s class is not about sausage making it’s simply about a particular type of Italian Sausage, the thin Cheese and Parsley sausage that goes by a host of names. It can be called BARESE SAUSAGE (quite the popular name of it in Canada), Cheese and Parsley Sausage, the most used in the NYC and surrounding areas, LUGANEGA which is the ancient name for a COILED ITALIAN PORK UNCURED SAUSAGE, also called Lucanega, Lucania and many Italian-Americans whose ancestry is from Bari and Puglia or Basilicata refer to it as “SHIVILATZ”…which definitely is an American corruption of a dialect word. Take it from this Italian American, we confuse ourselves with 1000 names and pronounciations for the same thing.
Pure LUGANEGA most likely was a coarse ground pork sausage with spices for preserving it and made in long coils came from LUCANIA now called BASILICATA. It’s the region my maternal grandfather Innocenzo Scaramuzzi was born in and immigrated to NYC from when he was 25. I blame him for my insatiable taste for this delicious treat.
There I am with Grandpa, Christmas Day 1978. Much of what is in my cooking comes directly from his style, region, and dishes. Grazie Grandpa. I n my home region of NY/NJ cheese and parsley sausage held together with a crisscross of wooden skewers always signaled the beginning of the Summer as the most popular way to make them was on the grill and Summer is our grilling season. Today they are sold year round and many places refer to them as Luganega. Those sausages contain fresh chopped parsley, grated Provolone or Pecorino, lots of ground black pepper. Most likely if you asked for Luganega in Italy you would get the more Northern Italy style which is a thicker continuous coil of sweet pork sausage, no cheese or parsley. Basilicata makes a fennel version and local hot chile spiked version. No studies have been done on this to back me up so if you know of the “REAL” reason why, please comment back to me..but…my assumption is that since the Barese-Americans all seem to have the special name of it (Shivulazz) and the Canadians call it Barese Sausage…the Cheese and Parsley version must be from Puglia (Bari is the capital of Puglia).
A beautiful locally made Cheese and Parsley ring. This became the grilled version you see in the top picutre. Succulent and bursting with flavor this sausage it too be savored. I can’t speak any more highly about it, get out and find a ring. Best way to cook it? Over Charcoal or Roasted or Pan Fried. Takes only about 15 minutes to cook it all the way thru, just not over too high of any heat source. You want to create a crisp caramelized casing on the sausage. Let it sit for 5 minutes after removing it from the heat source. This is a thin sausage, yes, cooks quickly but it’s tight wrapping means it could still be raw where the coils touch. 15 minutes should do it. Cut a piece from the center if you’re not sure and cook a little longer, just don’t overcook because when it’s dry is just not as good. Rub a lemon over the sides of it right before serving along with a drizzle of Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Serve it over a bed of greens, cooked with garlic and oil OR raw, it’s just beautiful.
It can also be served with a variety of sides and along with small meatballs. Stuff cut pieces into Brick oven Italian loaves of bread, with roasted peppers, with fried peppers and onions..dice it up and add to a pasta dish or roast with potatoes, carrots, celery. In concluding this “class” on a type of Italian sausage..while there may be certain recipes that are most traditional with a food by no means is it the end of what you can do with it. There are many ways to make a dish out of these Luganega. Try your hand at it…and let me know what you came up with.
Happy Cooking!!
I was born and raised in Brooklyn and the local butcher was right around the corner. My Mom would tell me to run to Carmine’s and get a ‘pinwheel.’ I was young and it was easy to remember :))
love those stories!
Would you share your recipe for Lucanega? I’m from NY living in LA now and “SHIVILATZ” (as my parents from Italy called it) does not exist. Thanks!
My recipe is the local Salumeria. There’s so many great small Italian sausage makers on my area I buy mine fresh.
Love your food creations as well as your beautiful photography! Thanks for sharing with us and educating us on food cultures. I am always fascinated with your posts! 😀
and vice versa!!! much thanks Gina!!
Thank you so much Peter!!
I never post anything on the internet but this is a special occasion. I had to thank you for posting this blog as I have searched periodically over the past 15 years trying to find out what that awesome sausage was that I had as a kid in the 70’s-80-s. My grandfather (Italian American with heritage from Bari) would pick up the coiled sausage from a butcher in Corona Queens and cook it on the bbq in the summer. Best sausage ever. Now get this… he and we always called it “Chitavelet” which is my phonetic spelling as I could never find anything on it over the years. Having read your blog I now believe he was referring to Shivilatz. The sausage we had I remember had pork, lamb, cheese, parsley, etc… If you can recommend a place to buy it I appreciate your input. Thanks again!. It’s the little things in life. 🙂
you have made me very happy with your comments!! grazie mille!! the lamb versions are very hard to find today…
where is the recipe?
within the blog..there’s no recipe for the sausage itself..but how i prepare it..the sausage around me is so well made according to tradition. You’ll see in the text how I prepare it..
http://www.primapress.it/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=22986:da-cicerone-a-marziale-la-lucanica-salsiccia-della-basilicata-arriva-a-milano-in-occasione-di-expo&Itemid=1163
I’m so glad I found this! My great grandparents lived in Brooklyn and had a butcher there that made “chivolette”. They were from Bari as well. We’ve had such a hard time finding it because it goes by so many names. We finally tracked down an apprentice of my great grandparents’ butcher who’s now out on Long Island. I would love if anyone found a recipe!
I found a place on Staten Island that sells several versions of Shivalate (this is what I called it when I was a kid). Family Fruit on Hylan Blvd sells parsley and cheese, broccoli rabe and cheese, lamb, and chicken versions. Whenever I’m home to visit, I make sure to pick up a few rings.
Thanks for the info on the lamb version. I can’t find it here at the jersey shore where I live. I’ll have to go back “home” to Staten Island and go to family fruit !! Thx!!
They have Pork and Lamb chivolette on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, NY. It is great. I bring it back to Florida with me every time I go to New York.
Thanks Theresa!! It’s a good thing I DON’T live close to Arthur Avenue because I’d be broke. I hyperventilate when I shop there…so many things that are so traditional and old school that you only find there…like that lamb civilazza!! Next time I go I will hunt for that ..appreciate the info! Ciao!
Also from Brooklyn, always had ‘gevelat” or you can find in Italian Market in Philly at Cappuccio’s who calls it chevelat. They will mail order, might be pricey but worth it. 215-922-5792. That’s where I go from the Mainline. Call ahead to make sure they have some or can make it for you. Learned this the hard way:)
lucky to live in such an ItalianAmerican region, lots of places to get them around me…the chicken version quite popular, but for the lamb vrsion i’d have to go up to the Bronx…”SHIVILAZZA”!!! delicious.
Can someone tell me where the recipe to make the sausage from scratch. When I was a kid my grandfather, who was from Bari, went to one butcher because he made this sausage,
Today I am making my own soppressata, capoicola, etc. and I am looking for the recipe for Barese Sausage- SHIVILAZZA
thanks
Steve
Love this!! thank you for sharing
Thank you. I remember my dad grilling this sausage when I was growing up. Brings back lots of sweet memories.
Dialectical Italian was taught by the immigrants to their kids phonetically in most cases. C’s became G’s and so on. But, “shivilatz” is a new one on me. It makes sense since the word they were trying to say was chevalatta–which is what I grew up knowing it as. Our Long Island summer parties (for decades) was on July 4th and many Bensonhurst and Gravesend Italians and their Italian-American kids brought this sausage with them as a contribution to the meal (feast) 2:00 PM pasta with salad and I don’t remember what else, followed by black & brown coffee, cakes (usually one or 2 from Ebinger’s) and by 8:00 PM the grills were smokin and this sausage, about 10 of them, were browning along with chicken and some kind of chicken liver/pork fat parsley laiden thing that looked great but was still liver. And you’re right, the Barese butchers made this in Brooklyn and the customers brought it far and wide to the celebrations they were part of. Bravo for bringing this up.
LOVE THIS SAUSAGE!
My Italian family on Long Island, originally from Bari, call it gevalad – a corruption of a coruption?corruption?!
Whatever you call it, it’s delicious!
depending on how you’re pronouncing it….it’s dialect of Cervellata, a type of sausage with different styles depending on the region. This thin cheese and parsley ring originally IS from Puglia and used lamb, in ItalianAmerican in 2022 it’s mostly made with Pork or chicken, the lamb is hard to find.. Some places term it BARESE Sausage.